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good idea to reduce temperatures once flowering has started, to preserve potency, even if it does
reduce growth speed. But higher temperatures will make plants grow vegetatively much faster,
by exciting the plants metabolism, assuming the required levels of CO2 and light are available,
and humidity is not allowed to get too high.
With normal levels of CO2, in a well vented space, 90 degrees would seem to be the
absolute max, while 85 may be closer to optimum, even with a great deal of light available. Do
not let the room temperature get over 35 C (95 F) as this hurts growth. Optimal temperature is
27-30 C (80-86 F) if you have strong light with no CO2 enrichment. Less than 21 C (70 F) is too
cold for good growth.
Low temperatures at night are OK down to about 60 degrees outdoors, and then start to
affect the growth in a big way. Mid 50's will cause mild shock and 40 s will kill your plants with
repeated exposure. Keep your plants warm, especially the roots. Elevate pots if you think the
ground is sucking the heat out of the roots. This is an issue if you have a slab or other type of
cold floor.
As temperature goes up, so does the ability of the air to hold water, thus reducing
humidity, so a higher average temperature should reduce risk of fungus.
Contrary to many reports, high humidity is not good for plants except during germination
and rooting. Lower humidity levels help the plant transpire CO2 and reduce risk of mould during
flowering.
Studies indicate the potency of buds goes down as the temperature goes up, so it is
important to see that the plants do not get too hot during flowering cycles.
PESTS
You really have to watch pests, or all your efforts could result in little or nothing in
return. Mites and Aphids are the worst; whiteflies, caterpillar and fungi are the ones to watch out
for long term. Pyrethrum bombs can start you with a clean slate in the room, and then homemade
or commercial soap sprays will do most of the rest. When bringing in plants from outside,
pyrethrum every broad leaf top and bottom and the soil too. Then watch them closely for a week
or two, and soap down any remaining bug life you find from eggs being hatched. This should do
the trick for a month or two, long enough it won't be an issue before harvesting.
Fungus is another obstacle in the path of a successful growing season. When the flowers
are roughly half developed they become susceptible to a fungus or bud rot. It appears that
growing conditions for the fungus are best when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees
and the humidity is high. The fungus is very destructive and spreads quickly. It is a spore type of
fungus that travels to other buds via the wind so it is impossible to prevent or stop if weather
conditions permit it to grow. If things should go badly and the fungus starts to attack your plants,
you must remove it immediately or it will spread to other areas of the plant or plants.
Some growers will remove just the section of the bud that is infected whereas other
growers will remove the entire branch. Removal of the entire branch better insures that the
fungus is totally re- moved, and also enables the grower to sample the crop a few weeks ahead of
time.
Fungi can wipe your crop quick, so invest in some SAFE fungicide and spray down the
plants just before flowering if you think fungus may be a problem. Don't spray the plants if you
have never had problems with fungus before. Keep humidity down, circulate air like crazy in the
grow space and keep uncurtained outdoor plants out of the indoor space. Don t wait until after
flowering, since it's not a good idea to apply the fungicide directly to flowers. Instead, flowers
must be cut off when they are infected.
Most fungicides are very nasty, and you won't want to ingest them, so it is necessary to
use one that is safe for vegetables. Safer makes a suitable product that is available at most
nurseries; it contains only sulphur in solution.
Use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use
some tobacco juice and chilli pepper powder added to this for mites. Dr. Bronnars Soap can be
used with some dish detergent in a spray bottle if you want to save money.
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, but can be
used in a closet or greenhouse in the corners to get rid of spiders and such. It breaks down within
a week to non-toxic elements, and can be washed from a plant with detergent solutions and then
clear water.
I find Pyrethrum to be the best solution for spider mites, if it is sprayed on young plants
up to early flowering. Into later flowering, the tobacco and pepper/soap solution is your best bet,
on a daily basis, on the under-sides of all infected leaves.
Spider mites are by far the worst offender in my garden. I have finally learned not to
bring plants from outside into the indoor space. They are always infected with pests and threaten
to infect the entire indoor grow space. It is much more practical to work WITH the seasons and
regenerate plants outdoors in the Summer, rather than bringing them indoors to regenerate under
constant light. Start a plant indoors; take it outside in spring to flower. Take a harvest or two;
feed it nitrogen all summer and it will regenerate naturally, to be flowered again in the fall.
Once a plant has been taken outside, leave it outside.
TRANSPLANTING [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
zanotowane.pl doc.pisz.pl pdf.pisz.pl fopke.keep.pl
good idea to reduce temperatures once flowering has started, to preserve potency, even if it does
reduce growth speed. But higher temperatures will make plants grow vegetatively much faster,
by exciting the plants metabolism, assuming the required levels of CO2 and light are available,
and humidity is not allowed to get too high.
With normal levels of CO2, in a well vented space, 90 degrees would seem to be the
absolute max, while 85 may be closer to optimum, even with a great deal of light available. Do
not let the room temperature get over 35 C (95 F) as this hurts growth. Optimal temperature is
27-30 C (80-86 F) if you have strong light with no CO2 enrichment. Less than 21 C (70 F) is too
cold for good growth.
Low temperatures at night are OK down to about 60 degrees outdoors, and then start to
affect the growth in a big way. Mid 50's will cause mild shock and 40 s will kill your plants with
repeated exposure. Keep your plants warm, especially the roots. Elevate pots if you think the
ground is sucking the heat out of the roots. This is an issue if you have a slab or other type of
cold floor.
As temperature goes up, so does the ability of the air to hold water, thus reducing
humidity, so a higher average temperature should reduce risk of fungus.
Contrary to many reports, high humidity is not good for plants except during germination
and rooting. Lower humidity levels help the plant transpire CO2 and reduce risk of mould during
flowering.
Studies indicate the potency of buds goes down as the temperature goes up, so it is
important to see that the plants do not get too hot during flowering cycles.
PESTS
You really have to watch pests, or all your efforts could result in little or nothing in
return. Mites and Aphids are the worst; whiteflies, caterpillar and fungi are the ones to watch out
for long term. Pyrethrum bombs can start you with a clean slate in the room, and then homemade
or commercial soap sprays will do most of the rest. When bringing in plants from outside,
pyrethrum every broad leaf top and bottom and the soil too. Then watch them closely for a week
or two, and soap down any remaining bug life you find from eggs being hatched. This should do
the trick for a month or two, long enough it won't be an issue before harvesting.
Fungus is another obstacle in the path of a successful growing season. When the flowers
are roughly half developed they become susceptible to a fungus or bud rot. It appears that
growing conditions for the fungus are best when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees
and the humidity is high. The fungus is very destructive and spreads quickly. It is a spore type of
fungus that travels to other buds via the wind so it is impossible to prevent or stop if weather
conditions permit it to grow. If things should go badly and the fungus starts to attack your plants,
you must remove it immediately or it will spread to other areas of the plant or plants.
Some growers will remove just the section of the bud that is infected whereas other
growers will remove the entire branch. Removal of the entire branch better insures that the
fungus is totally re- moved, and also enables the grower to sample the crop a few weeks ahead of
time.
Fungi can wipe your crop quick, so invest in some SAFE fungicide and spray down the
plants just before flowering if you think fungus may be a problem. Don't spray the plants if you
have never had problems with fungus before. Keep humidity down, circulate air like crazy in the
grow space and keep uncurtained outdoor plants out of the indoor space. Don t wait until after
flowering, since it's not a good idea to apply the fungicide directly to flowers. Instead, flowers
must be cut off when they are infected.
Most fungicides are very nasty, and you won't want to ingest them, so it is necessary to
use one that is safe for vegetables. Safer makes a suitable product that is available at most
nurseries; it contains only sulphur in solution.
Use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use
some tobacco juice and chilli pepper powder added to this for mites. Dr. Bronnars Soap can be
used with some dish detergent in a spray bottle if you want to save money.
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, but can be
used in a closet or greenhouse in the corners to get rid of spiders and such. It breaks down within
a week to non-toxic elements, and can be washed from a plant with detergent solutions and then
clear water.
I find Pyrethrum to be the best solution for spider mites, if it is sprayed on young plants
up to early flowering. Into later flowering, the tobacco and pepper/soap solution is your best bet,
on a daily basis, on the under-sides of all infected leaves.
Spider mites are by far the worst offender in my garden. I have finally learned not to
bring plants from outside into the indoor space. They are always infected with pests and threaten
to infect the entire indoor grow space. It is much more practical to work WITH the seasons and
regenerate plants outdoors in the Summer, rather than bringing them indoors to regenerate under
constant light. Start a plant indoors; take it outside in spring to flower. Take a harvest or two;
feed it nitrogen all summer and it will regenerate naturally, to be flowered again in the fall.
Once a plant has been taken outside, leave it outside.
TRANSPLANTING [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]